Thursday 17 November 2022

Chichicastenango 1

Quite amazing really but at 0345 10 of the 11 were standing in reception waiting for Emilio who arrived just after 0400 having practically jogged across town with his holdall (it's quite usual for guides to be given an allowance and for them to find their own accommodation so Emilio probably chose something a bit cheaper than the lakeside hotels the tourists are put in).  Miguél-Angel had departed yesterday with our big bus as he had another long transfer to do, so we had a new driver and a minibus but our seats were comfortable enough and we both caught up with a bit of sleep on the way.

Well before 0600 we got to the road junction which was due to be closed and as a result sailed through with no problems and were at Chichicastenango before 0700 so had to wait in the bus for a while before the hotel Emilio had arranged to give us breakfast were ready for us.

Santo Tomás Chichicastenango to give it its full name is home to K'ichi' people (the largest of Maya groups) and is best known for its colourful market which has been held since pre Spanish times.  Some vendors walk from villages up to 100kms away to sell their wares in this twice weekly market.  I know this photo is hideously out of focus, but I watched this poor chap and his wife walk up and down the road for about 15 mins, carrying his huge load of apples on his back.  Maybe he was from one of the far away villages and was lost when he got into town.


We had a quick breakfast in a beautiful old colonial hotel with lovely planting and interesting masks lining the colonnade walls.




First off we had an appointment with a Shaman - a VJV Special Event - so here are a few snaps on the way through the town.  I found it to be quite an intimidating place and not one I would have liked to walk around without a guide.  I was very careful who I photographed and tried not to point the camera at anyone directly.  

The area around the church is pretty amazing, I hope we come back to it.  The 18 steps leading up to the church are original Maya, each one representing one month in the Maya calendar, and once again the Spaniards had knocked down a Maya temple and rebuilt on the same spot, re-appropriating the ancient steps.  





People are tiny, some barely 4ft tall and in a hurry to go about their business so we tried to get out of people's way as much as possible, especially when they were carrying heavy loads. 





Ooops, I wasn't very discreet here.





Who knew there were so many types of corn.



What an amazingly coloured cemetery, I wish we'd been closer as I'd have loved a quick visit.


A couple of street art examples.



Dahlia tenuicaulis growing wild (we've seen it all over the world, it seems to love damp atmospheres)


I need to find out what all these umbrellas mean - are they representing the universe?


A picture from the Museum of Masks on the right.


As you would imagine the Shaman's residence was full of spiritual ephemera.


I didn't ask at the time, but I presume that this is a modernised version of our good friend Maximón.